Astrophotograpy captures small specks of light in a (ideally) black sky. As such, this poses significant challenges to a digital camera. The black regions of your image will have very little detail, since you haven't exposed very long there (you have bright stars that are going to wash out otherwise). The way we overcome this is to take lots and lots of pictures of the sky and "stack" them on top of each other. This allows us to add more and more faint details in the darker parts of the image and slow accumulates an image there, while the stars just remain white, but not blown out.
There is specialized software (PixInsights, DeepSKyStacker, etc.) for stacking that aligns the images so that they perfectly overlay each other and then does some more processing and spits out a composite/stacked image.
This software can also handle additional calibration images, which we also capture with our camera. Digital sensors have a certain noise level that needs to be accounted for, the lens and sensor might have dust specks on it, etc., etc. "Calibration" frames capture how our camera operates, some depend on the outside conditions and should be taken as part of your imaging session, others will be done inside at any time. See below for more details on how to shoot these.
This guide assumes you are using a standard general-purpose digital SLR or mirrorless camera and lens, i.e. not a dedicated astrophotography camera.
- Lens: generally, the faster (smaller f-number) the better, as more light is captured
- Intervalometer: allows you to automatically take pictures at certain intervals. Some cameras have this built-in.
- check out OpenMemories: Timelapse for older Sony cameras (A7/S/R I/II)
- Dew heater: prevent lens from fogging up (depends on your climate)
- TODO (optional): tethered to Windows / Linux computer (APT, Ekos, etc)
- Ideally close to new moon, unless you have a narrowband setup
- Check weather: rain, cloud cover, seeing, wind
- Meteoblue's astronomy forecast works worldwide and has been reliable for me in Australia
- Specific regions (US/Europe) may have better sources - add here.
- Use Stellarium or similar software to choose appropriate target(s) visible for at least a few hours above 30 degrees altitude, or higher if you have obstacles
These are the four main types of frames you need to shoot, two of which you should do in the field:
Purpose: These are the regular images that you are taking with your camera.
Method: Use a good exposure level that gives good stars that are not overexposed or blown out. Usually 60s or more with aperture at the sweet spot of your lens.
Purpose: These capture what an image with zero light looks like. This can be used to eliminate stuck pixels.
- Take 30-50 images at the same exposure duration as your main frames.
- Take them at the same temperature conditions as your light frames.
- For a DSLR it's best to take the lens off and put the cover on the body. You can also just put the lens cap on, but then make sure you're in a dark room.
- For a DSLR, set the ISO at the same level as your Lights.
Purpose: These capture the flaws of the optic pathway, like lens vignetting, dust or dirt on or in the lens and dust on the sensor.
1.Use the camera in the lights configuration, but cover the lens with something like a white T-shirt (no wrinkles/lumps) and point at an even light source (the sky is good, but not directly at the sun or lightbulb).
- Take 50 or more exposures at the same focus as your lights
- For DSLRs, use a low ISO
- Expose for at least 2s, long enough to have the histogram be 1/3 - 1/3 of the way to the right.
Purpose: These compensate for the base read noise of the sensor.
- Take 100 or more at the shortest exposure that your camera can do.
- For DSLRs, use the same ISO as your Lights
This page explains calibration frames well. Darks, Flats and Bias frames are the most important three. If you have a low noise sensor and lots of exposure time, darks may not be necessary - experiment for yourself.
- Disable any automatic noise reduction e.g. high ISO NR, long exposure NR. These slow you down and are unnecessary as you will capture your own calibration frames and you don't want to throw away data early.
- Disable image stabilization
- Set camera to save RAW images
- Change camera mode to manual (M)
- Find your best ISO setting(s) to make a good trade off between dynamic range and noise. You can search this online (google: [camera] astrophotography iso) or use the graphs here. Newer cameras are 'dual-gain' which means there are two optimal ISO settings and the others will just reduce dynamic range which can make you lose star colour.
- Start at your widest aperture. You may want to stop down (increase f-number) later if you aren't satisfied with the lens performance wide open. Check the edges of the frame for vignetting, coma (comma shaped stars) and purple fringing.
- Set lens to manual focus (MF). Point at a bright star, and use a 3D printed Bahtinov mask to focus (best) (check example image here) or zoom in as far as you can in live view and try to make the stars as small as possible.
- Start taking test images starting from 10-30s. You may need BULB mode to go longer than 30s. Open the histogram display on your camera. Note where the peak of the histogram is. Increase or decrease the shutter speed until the peak is approximately 1/4 to 1/3 of the way from the left of the histogram.
- Zoom in to your test image to make sure the stars are round and not making trails - you may have to calibrate the OAT here.
- Set your (built-in) intervalometer, PC software, etc to the shutter speed you determined above and fire away! Aim for at least an hour of exposure in total; more is of course better but there are somewhat diminishing returns.
- As described above, you may want to take dark frames while you're out.
- Easiest: Sequator
- Alternatives: DeepSkyStacker, Siril
- Advanced: PixInsight (paid)